We are told that the word “tetons” means “boobs” in French. The story behind the name of the park and its mountain range is contested, but apparently it was named by the French fur trappers who were the first Europeans in this part of the world. These men, long from the comforts of home, thought that these mountains looked like breasts and named the range accordingly. I admit that the mountains are lovely and shapely, but it's a pretty long bow to string to say that they look more like boobs than any other set of mountains. Perhaps those lonely French trappers were pining for their women-folk particularly keenly when they got to the Tetons. As Confucius says - “To a man carrying a hammer, everything looks like a nail”.
Upon our arrival, we found a nice little campsite at the Signal Mountain Campgrounds and had a relaxing evening at Jackson Lake and around the campfire. Jackson Lake is particularly lovely at sunset. As you look to the west across the lake, the stately Tetons gracefully fill the backdrop, with glints of pinks, oranges and gold dancing across the darkening sky.
After the hoopla of Yellowstone, we were in need a wind-down and an early night. Not to be. Around 1am our sleep was disrupted by a rustling and a hooting noise. It woke us both. It was definitely an animal sniffing around next to the tent, but what kind of animal? Alex clutched the bear mace and removed the safety, Ellisha clasped the massive mag-light torch (many thanks to Duncan and Emily for this gift). The rustling continued for about 15 minutes while we freaked out in our tent. This was not helped by some other campers freaking out a few campsites away (we could hear their nervous chatter in the wind). We decided to stay in the tent and not explore until morning. In the morning we couldn't see any footprints around the campsite. We tracked down the ranger, who told us that it was probably a bear. He quite candidly told us that they've had a whole bunch of bears around the area for a while now.
We decided bravely, in the clear light of day, to do a hike into the mountain range. This was a bonnie little hike along Jenny Lake and up through the Cascade Canyon, between some of the peaks in the Tetons, stopping at Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point (interestingly there was an Inspiration Point in Yellowstone as well). The Tetons are a raggedy line of peaks that rise abruptly over Jackson Lake and the valley through which the Snake River runs. They are amongst the youngest formations in the Rocky Mountains. Around eight million years ago, once the rest of the Rockies were formed, the earth's crust relaxed and stretched, opening an 80-km long fault that pushed the Tetons up and the valley floor down, to make the Jackson Hole. Before the hole filled with sediments (5.5 kilometers of sediment to give you an idea), the Tetons rose 7.3 kilometers above the floor of Jackson Hole!
Besides the resplendent fall colours, which had re-appeared as we headed south from Yellowstone, we also saw a new mammal called a “pika”. (The exact species name is the American Pika, Ochotona princeps). This guy looks like a hamster, sits on rocks in mountainous environments and makes little bleating noises to its pals. Unfortunately, he doesn't look like he sees or hears too well and probably gets a lot of trouble from eagles and hawks. Later back at Signal Mountain, we also got a sight of a American Marten, which is a bit like a feline weasel. Fortunately, we did not encounter any bears other than our phantom night bear. Just in case you were wondering what we would do if we encountered a bear, please read this extract from the Cascade Canyon Trail Guide:
“IF YOU ENCOUNTER A BEAR Do not run. Running can elicit an attack. If bear is unaware of you, detour quickly and quietly away. If the bear is aware but has not acted aggressively back away slowly, talking in an even tone while waving your arms.
AGGRESSIVE BEARS If a bear approaches or charges you, do not run. It will increase the chances of attack. Do not drop your pack; it may protect your body if attached, bears often “bluff charge,” stopping before contact. Bear experts generally recommend standing still until the bear stops, then backing away slowing. Climbing trees is no protection from black bears and may not help with grizzlies either. If you are knocked down, curl into a ball protecting your stomach and back of your head and neck.”
With this in mind and the careless advice of our camp ranger that morning, we decided to camp another night at Signal Mountain Campground. We collected our firewood (collection of lake driftwood under 3 feet in length is allowed in this national park), shared a few beers (specifically Teton Ale by Grand Teton Brewing Co.) and some campfire chilli, and ... slept soundly through to 9am without disturbance. Phew!
On our way out of the park we stopped in Jackson, primarily to enjoy singing the Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash duet that we'd been practicing, and also to take a look at the art galleries that are clustered there. We did a tour of the National Wildlife Art Gallery which is located next to the Elk Winter Refuge on the outskirts of Jackson. This resident elk herd is corralled here in winter. Naturally, the gallery is filled with many interesting paintings, sculptures and photographs. Much of the gallery is noteworthy, but in particular there was an excellent temporary exhibit of Michael Forsberg's photos of the Great Plains. Check his work out at:
Also of interest is a sculpture of a jaguar, by the same artist who made the one that leers over New York's Central Park Loop Road just north of the Boathouse.
I would have freaked out and not slept another night there...but I'm not Chuck Norris Purtill...
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